At last, the wait is over. For the past couple of years, rumors, news stories and announcements suggested that a notable chef would be opening a highly anticipated new place downtown. After the location on Walnut Street was confirmed, I went by the building for months, wondering when David Jackman’s fans would be able to enjoy his cooking in a setting that befits his skill. Happily, Wildweed opened its doors in late July.
Almost immediately, it seemed that every foodie in metro Cincinnati showed up to grab a table. With my boyfriend and a couple of our friends, I joined the throngs for what turned out to be an evening of excellent food and drink, to be sure. But more than anything, we had loads of fun at Wildweed in what felt like a citywide celebration. A party atmosphere, even.
I first happened upon Jackman’s cooking when he and his wife Lydia ran a pop-up in a storefront on Elm Street across from Findlay Market. His lunch offerings — not complicated, but remarkably interesting and delicious — were so intriguing that we returned for dinner at that location before another business took over the space. That meal was memorable, as well.
Jackman, 36, said that, in all, he ran about 250 popup meals around town while waiting for renovation of the historic Columbia Flats building on Walnut Street. He also was chef at PearlStar in Over-the-Rhine for a while and cooked for several months earlier this year in the now-shuttered restaurant Pleasantry. In all, he amassed enough of a following to fuel an elevated level of anticipation for the opening of Wildweed.
Considering the restaurant’s name, I assumed it referred to the chef’s reputation as a forager, someone who not only grows their own produce but who also finds edible delicacies in the wild. Jackman elaborated on his choice for the name, saying, “It was born out of nothing (and) we built it from the ground up,” confirming that he cooks with “lots of wild foraged ingredients.” His staff is “a team that likes to push and grow” as they seek to develop a “playful, fun, energetic identity that respects ingredients, so they become greater than the sum of their parts.”
He also said that one of his primary goals is “to help build people’s careers.” It took about two years to gather his current team together, including sous chef Justin Singer, general manager Justin Caper, beverage director Lia Heinze, and Valerie Diehl, who oversees the restaurant’s cocktail program. Lydia Jackman helps with guest relations “and fitting in where necessary,” David said, adding that with a young daughter at home, “evening work is harder” for Lydia.
The foundation of David Jackman’s culinary reputation revolves not only around his use of foraged foods but at least as much because of his skill with various forms of pasta. The August menu at Wildweed included five dishes in the “Noodles” section; along with two “Mains,” and they comprise the central part of a meal.
Along with the superior food, though, you might want a cocktail or glass of wine. The drink choices might change by the time you read this, but you are highly likely to find something to like. Familiar cocktails — such as daiquiris, martinis, Singapore slings or bee’s knees — became more interesting with the addition of imaginative ingredients. For instance, the daiquiri included green tomato and coconut, and the gin martini added apricot, marigold and oolong. I tried a milk punch, which had no milk but was a mix of tequila, sherry and a couple of other flavors. It was intriguing and satisfying. Wildweed offers nine glasses of wine, well-chosen by beverage director Heinze. With my pasta, I had a glass of sparkling wine from Germany, dry on the palette and robust with bubbles.
That night’s menu included five starters plus bread service — notably, slices of miche from the College Hill bakery, El Camino, served with herb butter. A tomato salad with crispy garlic and anchovy sauce stood out among appetizers, taking full advantage of what was then the peak of tomato season. Burrata with cucumber, basil and herb oil was another scrumptious starter. Though the preparations may seem simple, some kind of alchemy elevates them to a higher level.
The same holds for the noodle dishes, which include selections for vegetarians and meat lovers alike. The promise of chanterelles — my favorite mushroom — attracted me to summer squash cappelletti, delicately formed pasta shapes stuffed with the mushrooms and lightly sauced. Another winner was doppio ravioli; doppio means double, wherein each raviolo has two fillings. Wildweed’s version also is vegetarian, stuffed with a combo of beans, cheese, basil, braised lobster mushroom and preserved lemon. Fried shallots elevated another stuffed pasta, chicken tortelli, the crunchy onions adding a welcome texture to the savory dish. Malfaldine, a flat, ribbon-shaped pasta, was sauced with rabbit ragu and parmesan and was hampered by over-salting.
A couple at the table next to ours ordered smoked ribeye steak that made our eyes pop out with envy. It smelled incredible and we doubted that the pair would finish the large cut of beef; they did, though. Even the non-meat eaters among us thought we might have to try that steak should it be on the menu next time we visit.
I remembered intriguing desserts from Jackman’s popup dinners — pawpaw ice cream, for one — and was not about to skip that course at Wildweed. Not surprisingly, it might have been the best part of our dinner. We tried an off-menu panna cotta with raspberries that was custardy, not too sweet and completely luscious. But the real knockout for me was beeswax ice cream, listed on the menu as comprised of olive oil, bee and fennel pollen, Maldon salt and honey. I could have kept eating that creamy concoction into the wee hours.
For a genuine splurge, make your reservation at the chef’s counter for an intimate view of your meal’s preparation. You will enjoy a multi-course, off-menu dinner with optional wine pairings and have a close-up view of how this inventive culinary team works its magic. The restaurant is on the small side, and only five seats at the front bar are available for walk-ins. Plan ahead, and get ready for a special night out.
Wildweed, 1301 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine. More info: instagram.com/wildweed.cinci.This story is featured in CityBeat's Sept. 18 print edition.
