On a drizzly Thursday evening, there's a 40-minute wait at Monroe's Red Onion Cafe. A specials chalkboard mentions Shrimp Scampi, Lake Perch and Boeuf Bourguignon. A veritable mission statement is on the menu cover: "Food is what we are all about ... we cook from scratch ... we take pride in our craft." Craft? We can't wait to get seated.