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Fast Good Food

By Bill Hatfield · August 17th, 2011 · Lunchline
According to recent research, typical Americans consume three hamburgers each week. Unfortunately, many of them are gulped down from drive-thru lanes at fast-food restaurants. If we eat so many of these quintessentially American sandwiches, why don’t we take the time to at least seek out quality? With the recent opening of Flippin’ Jimmy’s (14 E. Fifth St., Covington, 859-491-5467) we can get a pretty damn good burger for basically the price of fast food.

If Flippin’ Jimmy’s has the feel of a small-town burger joint, that’s because it is the sister restaurant of a popular burger spot in Fostoria, Ohio, with the same name and owners. The restaurant offers plenty of seating at mostly high-top tables and is an unhurried alternative to fast food in the heart of downtown Covington. The menu is small and, according to the owners, represents the best-selling items from their Fostoria location. As time progresses and business increases, they plan to add more items to the Covington menu.

Burgers and chicken are the highlights at Jimmy’s. The burgers are hand-pressed and made to order, so expect to wait about 10 minutes for the cooking process. But don’t be deterred: The result is definitely worth the wait. The burgers, 80/20 lean ground beef, are 1/3-pound patties for $4.49, or $4.99 with American cheese.

For a better bargain, you can get two patties for $5.49, or $5.99 with cheese. You can also add sautéed onions for 50 cents or thick-cut bacon for $1.29.

I had a 1/3-pound cheeseburger loaded with all of the available toppings (ketchup, mustard, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles and mayo) and it was perfectly cooked with a nice char on the outside but succulent and juicy in the middle. The Kaiser roll holds up nicely to the weight of the burger and the condiments. I would have preferred the bun to be toasted so it would give a little crunch to the mouth feel, but overall this is a really solid burger. My only other issue is that I wish that there were cheese options other than basic American.

Platters are available with either French fries (additional $2) or onion rings ($3). The waffle-cut fries were good, as were the onion rings, but both could benefit from additional seasoning. On the plus side, you get a really nice-sized portion that fills you up and makes the burger a really good lunch choice.

Flippin’ Jimmy’s offers chicken, too; either wings or chunks. Anyone who has read my reviews in the past knows that I despise chicken wings, so I tried the chicken “chunx.” These are not boneless wings but yummy all white meat chunks of breast meat — large, juicy bites coated in one of 10 sauce options. I tried the tart orange Asian sauce, which nicely complemented the chicken. The “half-order” portion was huge and very filling. There is also a large order of chunks available for $8.49 or a double order for $15.99. These high-quality chicken “chunx” are quite addictive, and I have a funny feeling that I will be craving them again very soon.

Flippin’ Jimmy’s offers Party Packs of chunx or wings and Burger Boxes for large groups. There is also a Kids menu offering four wings or a burger or chunx with fries and apple juice for $4.99. There is no liquor license available, but Pepsi products and iced tea (all $1.87) or bottled water ($1.50) are offered. Delivery to downtown Covington businesses is also offered at lunch. The restaurant is open 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday.

I wish Jimmy’s the best of luck. It’s an unpretentious, family-owned restaurant serving simple, reliable, freshly made American classics. Don’t eat fast food, eat fast good food.

CONTACT BILL HATFIELD: letters@citybeat.com



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