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Sky Galley Restaurant (Review)

By Bill Hatfield · October 20th, 2010 · Lunchline
Airport dining usually conjures up thoughts of overpriced, processed fast food, but I discovered that could not be further from the truth when I recently had lunch at the Sky Galley Restaurant (262 Wilmar Ave., 513-871-7400) at Lunken Airport. Located in the charming Art Deco terminal, the Sky Galley is a throwback to a time when dining (and air travel) were both more relaxing and civilized than they are today.

I was somewhat shocked to find the place bustling with guests late in the afternoon, at a time when most restaurants would be nearly empty. Obviously a lot of people know about this little gem. We were fortunate to be seated outside on the patio. This is one of the best outdoor dining spots in the city, as the patio is literally right on the edge of the runway and provides a front row seat to the comings and goings of the planes.

Sky Galley’s full menu is available all day and provides a nice balance of appetizers, sandwiches and entrées. Homemade is the key word. You can tell that the kitchen staff (there is no head chef) takes great pride in their food and strives for everything to be freshly prepared on site.

Appetizers range from the traditional wings ($7.50) to nachos ($6.95-$7.95 depending on toppings) to chicken fingers ($6.95), but there are some unique choices, like Spicy Catfish Fingers ($6.50) and the Chicken Liver Appetizer ($7.95).

Soups are also homemade, but that was the one dish that I did not enjoy. The Cream of Broccoli and Cheese soup ($3.95 cup/$4.95 bowl) was simply too thick. It would taste great on top of a baked potato, but it didn’t cut it as a soup. It reminded me of Cheez Whiz with broccoli florets. There is also a nice selection of salads, though, including a beautiful, generous Chef Salad ($8.95).

The true star of my meal was the Pulled Pork sandwich ($6.95). When the menu says “everything is home-made except the pickle spear,” they aren’t lying. The pork shoulder meat was moist and clearly hand-pulled, with a delicious bark on the edges that’s the sign of a truly slow-cooked meat. The most memorable aspect of the dish was the spectacular barbeque sauce. This slightly sweet and smoky sauce puts all others in the area to shame. I could eat it on just about anything. The sandwich comes with excellent vinegar-based coleslaw, although the portion was far too small. Oh, by the way, it was also a damned good pickle.

Other sandwiches include a homemade Meatloaf sandwich ($6.95), a dense slab of meatloaf served on a hoagie bun with provolone cheese and marinara sauce. It was filling and quite tasty, but I would have liked it better with the barbeque sauce instead of the marinara. There is a Catfish sandwich ($6.95) and a rather unique Braunschweiger sandwich ($6.50), which my friend seemed to really enjoy. Braunschweiger is German liverwurst, thickly cut and served with egg, red onion and good spicy mustard.

Service was relaxed and friendly, which was a reflection of my entire dining experience. This is not the place to go for a rushed business lunch, but if you want to take your time, it’s the perfect spot. Finally, the kids will love the planes, so it makes for a great family outing.


CONTACT BILL HATFIELD: letters@citybeat.com





 
 
 
 

 

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