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RIDE THE WAVE: FROM PAGE 39

By · September 30th, 2008 ·
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RIDE THE WAVE: FROM PAGE 39

the tomatoes and ordered a tomato, mozzarella and red onion salad ($11.95). It was lovely to look at and the onions were perfect, but the salad was served too cold — the refrigerator had undermined the flavor the tomatoes might have had. The Mixed Baby Greens salad ($9.95) was garnished with pickled watermelon slivers and pistachio crusted goat cheese, which would have been better warm. Choosing entrées was tough, with choices like “black and bleu” gulf snapper and Japanese sea scallops, but we decided to try two fish we’d never had before. I went with the whole Icelandic Arctic Char ($38.95), a fantastic pink ish-fleshed fish, flash fried and reminiscent of a very light, sweet, delicate salmon.

My friend selected pan-seared New Zealand Barramundi ($28.95). The barramundi was meatier, like tuna, and stood up well to the full-flavored, bacon-wilted spinach and horseradish butter that accom panied it. They were both incredibly delicious, but the por tions were immense. The char would have fed a family — I had the leftovers, with their wonderful ginger-soy glaze, on salad for lunch and dinner the next day. Side dishes were oversized but irresistible. I had to taste the roasted beets ($8.95), which were a little too sweet, but the King Crab mac n’ cheese ($12.95) was a crowd pleaser — rich, buttery cheese sauce on orecchiette, mixed with generous lumps of crabmeat. Choices included asparagus with hollandaise and sour cream mashed Yukon potatoes — nothing exotic, but all well-executed.

After we had enough leftovers boxed away that gro ceries were superfluous, we still had to try dessert. I was dying for a strawberry tiramisu that our server described in loving detail — only to return to report it had sold out. Our second choice, key lime pie ($9.95), was tasty, but after a few bites there’s not much new to tempt your mouth. So why serve a wedge the size of an ocean liner’s hull? Maybe it’s just part of the theme. Oceanaire’s food was more creative and better prepared than I had antici pated, and I loved the service and the setting. It’s only a lit tle pricier than a night in the Reds’ diamond seats, and I’d still call it a major-league addition to downtown dining.

 
 
 
 

 

 
 
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