What should I be doing instead of this?


By · September 26th, 2008 ·


the real reason for the delay: The Edgecliff’s service is highly orchestrated. The bus person had not yet brought our water, and that was the cue the server was waiting for. Once he did get to us I was impressed with his honesty, grace and good manners. One of my favorite parts of the evening occurred when my husband and our friend were engrossed in a musical conversation and the server quietly leaned in to ask me if I wanted another glass of wine. It was handled so elegantly.

I was impressed with the breadth of the menu as well. The appetizers, salads, soups and sides filled one entire page, and along with entrées the Edgecliff offers sandwiches and burgers for dinner. This seems like a good strategy when you have the potential for a 24-hour captive audience. We started with the Gulf Shrimp Bloody Mary Cocktail ($10), Crab Cakes ($13) and Hummus with olives and pita ($6). While my husband said the shrimp were a bit overcooked, the avocado and bloody Mary base was an excellent way to serve a traditional shrimp cocktail.

The hummus was chunky and very garlicky and lemony. Our friend liberally doused her fresh, meaty crab cakes in lemon juice from the lemon slices she requested. She confided in the server that they were absolutely the best crab cakes she had ever eaten.

For dinner we tried the N.Y. Strip Steak ($22), which had just changed from a 7-ounce portion to a 10-ounce and was served with a choice of potato and a vegetable asparagus on this night. We also had the Mustard Crusted Pork Chop ($23) served with potato hash, rosemary and vermouth glaze and vegetables and a Ham and Gruyere sandwich ($9.50). In an era when many restaurants are putting vegetables and starches in an a la carte category that costs extra, I was pleased that the Edgecliff saw them as an integral part of the meal. My husband’s steak was cooked perfectly and the restaurant had no qualms abut honoring his “no dairy” request.

The Southern-influenced pork chop was huge and awash in an excellent, sinus-opening mustard flavor. The ham and Gruyere sandwich came with a whole roasted roma tomato sliced in half and maple mustard and was served on thick slices of buttery grilled bread. The tangy cheese and smoky ham hit just the right spot. Dessert options include Madisono’s gelato, a local product I’m always glad to see on a menu, and something called “JP’s selections.” When queried, our server told us that these desserts come from the Jean- Robert Group commissary. The restaurant also makes some desserts inhouse, including pot du crème and crème caramel.

We tried one of JP’s selections — a blueberry almond tart ($7). In my mind you can never go wrong serving an almond-flavored dessert, and the Edgecliff did not disappoint.

It seems like a bit of a risky venture to open a restaurant in a hard-tofind spot, even if you do have a built-in audience. Still, I think with its good food, gracious service and chance to live it up on the patio, the Edgecliff Room is worth the extra effort it might take to find.



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