Photo By Joe Lamb

Grandview Tavern & Grille

The gods of independent neighborhood dining seem to smile on Fort Mitchell. Family jewels like the Oriental Wok, the Greyhound Tavern and Indigo´s have thrived happily.

Now there´s another gem in town. Grandview Tavern & Grille opened last summer, and owners Matthew and Colleen Haws, who are brother and sister, have taken a personal approach that´s modeled after the others.

Grandview gets its name not from soaring vistas, but from the street where you´ll find it, tucked away in Ft. Mitchell Station, the small plaza next to the train tracks near Better Bodies Fitness. The space is nicely outfitted with a stone fireplace that was welcoming on the cold night of a recent visit, and we chose to sit in one of the comfortable, high-backed wooden booths in the bar. There´s also a more formal dining room and a patio for next spring.

I brought my most athletic friend -- a real tough cookie in the food department. She informed me that she doesn´t eat, she ¨refuels.¨ Yeah, well, same with me -- only she gets mileage like a lean, racy Maserati, and I get mileage like a thrifty, round VW Bug, cautiously storing away each calorie for Armageddon.

We began our fill ´er up with two appetizers -- tasty Crab Cakes ($13) atop baby greens with a fresh tomato relish that had a hint of cilantro and delicious Chicken Empanadas ($10) with creamy, smoky chipotle sauce that registered some spicy heat on the second bite. Excellent.

Dinner entrées come with a choice of salad, and when I chose Caesar, our server asked if I´d like anchovies. Why, I´d be delighted! I can´t remember the last restaurant I visited that included this authentic ingredient, which is a personal favorite. The homemade Parmesan crisps were another really nice touch. They were also featured in the house salad.

Our server was knowledgeable and friendly. I took his advice on wine, and the Australian Cabernet/Merlot that he suggested went nicely with the Flank Steak ($18), which arrived with a crisp onion garnish, three sauces and a wedge of macaroni and cheese gratin. The béarnaise sauce and the horseradish cream were superb, and, again, I was impressed that the steak was served medium-rare as ordered.

As good as my food was, my friend´s Pan-Seared Salmon Filet ($19) was better. Perfectly cooked, it was crisp on the outside and just barely rare at the center and served with rich lentils and pesto. Her smile betrayed her -- she was genuinely enjoying her fuel! Perhaps I could convince her to toss aside ¨I eat to live.¨ Why not take joy in the moment and savor every bite?

The owner stopped by our table to make sure we were happy, and when I remarked on the nice size of the weekday crowd, she told me she´d done very little advertising so far. Obviously, the word-of-mouth is good -- plus I think that there´s a pent-up demand for fresh, locally-owned bistros like Grandview in every neighborhood. Even though the entrées are in the $15- $25 range, there are enough less expensive choices that you could enjoy a casual meal and a cocktail for under $20.

The menu offers options like conversation platters -- a Mediterranean version for $12 or an antipasto ($14 for two, $24 for four) that would be perfect for sharing. There are traditional and less-traditional pizzas ($8-$12), including a Mushroom Lovers with smoked gouda ($11). I saw a nice selection of significant salads, including a dinner size of the Caesar ($7) and a yummy-sounding warm goat cheese salad with rosemary toast points ($11), several wraps ($9-$10) and a pressed Cuban sandwich ($10) that I´d try with a side of sweet potato fries.

Although our fuel gauges were pushing hard on ¨Full,¨ we had to sample the desserts, especially when our server told us that they were made in-house. We nibbled at the special, an excellent bittersweet Chocolate Mousse ($5.95) with real whipped cream and lovely Cr#233me Brulee ($5.95) with fresh berries, until we could eat no more. The coffee was good, and though the bar had gotten a little smoky as the evening wore on, we took our time and relaxed. It was nice being near that comfortable fireplace, unwinding in the friendly atmosphere and appreciating our meals. Sounds almost decadent, doesn´t it?

Grandview Tavern & Grille
Go: 2220 Grandview Drive, Fort Mitchell

Call: 859-341-8439

Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Monday-Thursday; 11-1 a.m. Friday-Saturday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Entrées: $11-$29, cheaper for sandwiches and pizza

Payment: All major credit cards

Red Meat Alternatives: Plenty

Accessibility: Fully accessible

Grade: B+