This is a continuation of January's column, dispelling wine fallacies that stubbornly circulate among otherwise well-informed consumers.

Never chill a red wine. This is dead wrong. In general, Americans drink their red wines too warm. Red wine is usually served at room temperature, which, depending on the season, can be anywhere from, say, 68 to 78 degrees or higher. In fact, it should be served at cellar temperature, about 56 degrees Fahrenheit, because drinking it too warm will allow harsher flavors, aromas and textures to dominate and overwhelm the wine. I frequently ask waiters to put my red wine in an ice bucket for about 10 minutes to bring the temperature down a little. I get strange looks from some staff, but those who appreciate wine know what I'm going for and respond enthusiastically.

Always stick white wine in an ice bucket. Wrong again. Drink wine too cold and the aromas and flavors are deadened. The proper temperature for white wine consumption is not ice cold, but around 45 degrees Fahrenheit. So if the wine comes to your table ice cold, let it sit out on the table and warm up a little.

It's perfectly OK to break the red-wine-with-meat rule. While I agree that you should drink what you like, one should not expect the constituent parts of a chardonnay-and-steak au poivre pairing to complement one another. It will be the culinary equivalent of Ginger Rogers smoothly waltzing across your palate while Fred Astaire simultaneously dances a macho tango. Both might be good (perhaps even excellent) in their own way, but still completely separate from (and perhaps even in conflict with) one another.

One of the reasons that you drink red wine with red meat is that the bolder flavors, structured tannins and balanced acid in the red wine can stand up to (and cut through) the fat and richness of the meat. American Chardonnay is generally a low-acid wine, and white wines have lighter flavors and minimal discernible tannin. Therefore, they do not complement red meat.

If you like American Chardonnay, get out of your comfort zone next time you have beef and try a softer, less tannic red. For instance, a Spanish Garnacha (Grenache), like the delicious 2004 Borsao Tres Picos ($13/bottle), integrates its acidity and tannin under plush fruit and oaky vanillin but still holds its own in a pairing with prime rib.

SIDEDISH
McCormick & Schmick's on Fountain Square is changing its name ... for one day when it celebrates St. Patrick's Day. On Saturday the restaurant will transform into McCormick & O'Schmick's after the parade, offering an Irish-themed menu available in the bar only from 1-4 p.m. Menu items will include Banger's and Mash, Shepherd's Pie, Lamb and Potato Stew, Corned Beef Boiled Dinner, Guinness Fish and Chips and Irish Whiskey Glazed Salmon. The restaurant will also feature Irish-themed bar games each hour until closing and drink specials on Guinness, Bailey's Irish Cream and other beverages.