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Fermintations

Bourbon 101

As a lifelong whiskey drinker and recent graduate of Woodford Reserve's Bourbon Academy (7855 McCracken Pike, Versailles, Ky., 859-879-1812), I'm finally qualified to confirm Lyndon Johnson's First Law of Bourbon Dynamics: "A man can take a little bourbon without getting drunk, but if you hold his mouth open and pour in a quart, he's gonna get sick on it."

Down a winding, two-lane country road amid scenic stud farms, Master Distiller Chris Morris presides over the National Landmark distillery and the Academy. Over five hours on a recent Saturday, Chris graciously walked our co-ed class through the property, including the historic 1840s distillery where Dr. James Crow (after whom "Old Crow" is named) perfected the bourbon-making process. We also explored the barrel-aging warehouse, in which steam heat cycles the temperature, accelerating and enhancing maturation.

We learned that about 60 percent of the flavor (and 100 percent of the color) in a bottle of whiskey is attributable to barrel maturation. So we could experience this effect, we compared clear "new make" whiskies fresh from the still with richly hued bourbons aged in charred, white-oak barrels. After a sumptuous bourbon-inspired lunch, we tasted a range of products exemplifying different bourbon styles:

· Light and Gentle. Usually aged less than four years, these are lighter in color and viscosity and have less complex sweet-corn flavors and aromas. Refreshing on the rocks and great for cocktails. (Examples: Early Times and Jim Beam White Label.)

· Flavorful and Spicy. Usually aged four to seven years, these are richer whiskies that sometimes show more rye character with complex cinnamon, clove and spice flavors and aromas. (Examples: Old Forester and Old Granddad.)

· Robust and Full-bodied. Usually aged at least seven years, these are a deeper orange-brown, more viscous on the palate and often more reserved on the nose. They open slowly, revealing loads of complexity and depth with fruit flavors and aromas, subtle spice and confectionary notes. (Examples: Woodford Reserve, Hirsch 16 Year Old, and Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year Old.)

Eminent local historian Michael Veach provided an enlightening discourse on American whiskey. Inspired by his dedication to this topic, I'm eager to continue my own graduate studies and earn an MBA -- Master of Bourbon Arts, that is.

Offered several times a year, Bourbon Academy is a daylong immersion in the history, science and enjoyment of America's whiskey. Easily worth the $100 tuition for those wanting a deeper understanding of what makes bourbon so special, Woodford Reserve also offers regular guided tours for a small fee. For more information, go to www.woodfordreserve.com.



fermentations: appears monthly. Contact Michael Schiaparelli

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