The Quarter is nothing if not ambitious. The menu reads like a "who's who" of foodie chic. Risotto, tapenade, caviar, pepitas -- the gang's all here! But maybe simple is what the Quarter does best.

The Quarter began as The Latin Quarter, and through some politics of partnership now has fewer owners and fewer words in its name. The staff won't spill the gory details of the split; they're quite proud of the place and enthusiastic about the menu offerings. I've never had a server who had so many favorite dishes -- if it were legal; he'd probably be a polygamist.

The Quarter is a relatively small space in a fantastic location, made larger by mirrored walls and by not wasting space on frivolous details like, for example, restrooms. It seems pretty self-assured to send hungry patrons to the Mariemont movie theater next door to take care of business. They could succumb to Jujubes and never return.

But return I did, to enjoy the house special martini, served with blue-cheese stuffed olives. The olives didn't do much for the drink, but the drink did wonders for the olives! My companion loved the house-made Sangria, served in a sugar-rimmed goblet.

While those olives could have served as an appetizer, we also tried the Seared Scallops ($9), our server's favorite! It's a nice-sized dish to share. The scallops were pan-seared to perfection, flavorful and buttery tender, and served with crunchy greens and a little cream sauce.

The house-baked French bread is a nice touch, too, although I found it odd that it was served in a paper bag. Maybe that's to make up for missing out on the popcorn next door.

My companion substituted Roast Butternut Squash Soup for salad (a $1 upcharge). The elaborate ingredients -- crab, pepitas, apple -- were a bit lost in the big picture. It was enjoyable, but not distinctive. Still, it was a better choice than the Quarter salad, because the sherry vinaigrette was overly sharp.

My companion's entrée was pricey, but delicious. She chose the evening's special, Walleye Pike served on a bed of couscous and vegetables ($24). I'm not usually fond of freshwater fish, but the pike was nice and firm, with a crisp cornmeal coating. The scoop of couscous benefited from fresh sautéed spinach and a colorful mix of chopped peppers.

The Pan Seared Ahi Tuna ($23) was beautifully presented. The peppered tuna was sliced and fanned to reveal its rare center, and it was as tender and delicious as it was lovely to behold. Sadly, though, the accompanying vegetables were a disappointment. The potato, mushroom and spinach hash contrasted with the tuna instead of complementing it, and the red wine sauce had an off note that was not pleasant.

I have to give full compliments, though, to the desserts. They were fantastic. I had the creamiest cheesecake I've had in ages. Banana cheesecake ($6) in a chocolate crust -- absolutely superb. And the Truffle Cake ($7.50) was pure chocolate bliss in a tower of feather-light cake layered with mousse. Truly expert pastries like these, beautifully presented, add a happy ending to almost anything that went before.

So why do I think simple might be better at the Quarter? There were several ladies having a dinner meeting at the table next to ours, and they had ordered from the "Sandwiches and Pizzas" section of the menu. Their Spinach and Artichoke Pizza ($12) looked absolutely fabulous, with clouds of fluffy feta cheese atop a nice selection of greens, and it smelled even better than it looked. Their Serious Burger ($10) looked equally yummy, and we almost abducted the Crab Cakes ($9 appetizer/$19 entrée). I would certainly try the Crusted Trout Sandwich ($10) based on our experience with the Walleye. I think the Quarter does fish well.

One of my smartest and best-dressed friends has always said that after you get completely dressed and accessorized, you should spin around in front of the mirror and then remove the first item that catches your eye -- it's almost always superfluous. That's my advice to the Quarter's chef: Take off that last, over-the-top ingredient, and have simpler food that costs a bit less and tastes a little more genuine.

But I urge you to stop at the Quarter after a movie for a pizza and dessert. They're definitely the stars of the show. ©

The Quarter
Go: 6904 Wooster Pike, Mariemont

Call: 513-271-5400

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Prices: Expensive with moderate options

Payment: All

Red Meat Alternatives: Seafood, Eggplant Ravioli, Red Pepper Noodles

Accessibility: All on one level, but bathrooms are in another building, through heavy door.

Grade: C+