I was in a rush to try Aioli when it first opened downtown amid much foodie buzz. It was definitely the hot ticket! Seats were packed in so tightly I bumped elbows with the stranger at the next table. Service was all nouveau-chic bluster and, more importantly, the food just didn't flip my skirt.

I'm happy to report that Aioli is calmer, more mature and tastier now. During our weeknight visit, we had very friendly, unhurried service, and the food was admirable. Chef and owner Julie Francis is showcasing fresh, seasonal ingredients unpretentiously -- and the results taste mighty fine.

I started with a lovely salad of baby spinach ($8) with slivers of cherries, topped with a slice of beautifully mild chèvre, dressed with a note-perfect raspberry vinaigrette. The cheese had been dipped in herbs and gently sautéed until it was as soft as silk.

I tried desperately to distract my husband so I could steal his crab cake ($9). Its oriental aroma was driving me mad. "Look! Is that a wallet full of cash out on the sidewalk, honey?" This got me nowhere. Through sheer determination and agility, I forked a few bites. Bliss. I loved the mild curry in the sauce, and there was no stinting on the crab.

When my entrée arrived, I was immediately glad that my evil schemes had failed. The monkfish ($22) was seafood heaven. I've never had any luck cooking monkfish -- in my experience, it can turn as tough as leather if left on heat an instant too long.

This artfully presented piece tasted as good as it looked. It was served over sliced sautéed potatoes and whole pearl onions, a very unusual accompaniment for fish, but it worked beautifully.

The grilled achiote chicken ($17) was, again, a beautiful dish. The bright red chile coating tasted much milder than it looked, and the chipotle sauce was just right. The corn tamale served on the side was especially creative and delicious. This dish has the right amount of adventure to raise reassuring old chicken above the bar.

We were tempted, not pressured, into dessert by our delightful server. She obligingly brought my husband his crème caramel ($6.50) without the wine-soaked berries, but brought me the berries along with my lemon tart ($6.50). That's a woman who knows better than to waste a good berry, and I admire that trait. She poured a darn good cup of coffee, too.

Chef/owner Francis agrees that her restaurant has matured since opening in late 2000. "There's a push and pull between your own idea of what you want to do, customer feedback and what the market will bear," she explained on follow-up. "I've learned a lot and developed really strong resources for ingredients, and I'm proud of how things have turned out."

Was there anything at Aioli that didn't make me happy? One audible problem. Probably because the dining room was so quiet, we could hear loud conversation and an even louder radio from the kitchen. But that's not a big deal, and I have a feeling it will be corrected.

Aioli is a terrific, independent downtown dining spot that's matured quite nicely and is definitely worth a return. ©

Aioli Bistro
Go: 700 Elm St., Downtown

Call: 513-929-0525

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner: Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-9:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5:30-10 p.m.

Prices: Moderate to Expensive

Payment: Major credit cards

Red Meat Alternatives: Lots of seafood, several salads

Accessibility: Yes

Grade: A-