At La Petite Pierre, it's better on the inside. The exterior of this small restaurant in Madeira is perfectly nondescript and, since parking is around the side and rear, my initial view was the service entrance. Kind of dismal. Just as I got to the front door, though, I brushed against the aromatic herbs in the garden, and my outlook started to improve.

The inside is French farmhouse friendly, but there's nothing too cutesy or overdone. We were welcomed to a small, linen covered table with wooden chairs, near a set of old shutters that cordons the kitchen from the dining room.

My companion had the perfect reaction when she opened the menu. "I feel reassured when there are just a few choices, because I know each one will be special." How right she was!

Thank goodness we never felt rushed at La Petite Pierre, because I truly wanted to savor everything. On the "Small Plates" menu, Ginger Blackbean Salmon Viet-namese Roll ($12) sounded intriguing, but only slightly more so than Grilled Shrimp and Avocado Salad ($13) -- two of my favorite foods, together at last.

We ordered two appetizers to share. La Petite Salad ($5.95) offers field greens topped with port-marinated figs, sliced perfectly ripened pears, spiced nuts and Roquefort crumbles, dressed in a port wine vinaigrette. Our server graciously divided this onto two plates, which might be why mine was missing its fig. But that small grievance aside, it was delicious.

Each dish has a "perfect wine" listed to accompany it, to make one of life's difficult choices a little bit easier. On follow-up, I learned that the owner consults with her wine distributor to make these selections, and I think it's a great idea that other restaurants should steal. We selected the wine that was recommended with the salad, the Schloss Vollrads Riesling ($32), and it was indeed the right choice. It almost bubbled on the tongue and was a delightful complement to our entire meal.

Because it was billed as "an Alsatian specialty" and I, your faithful reviewer, am technically of Alsatian descent, we also shared the "Tarte Flambée."($8.95) This free-form pizza had a crust that was as thin and crisp as a cracker, topped with perfect simplicity -- crisp bacon and sautéed onions over herbed crème fraiche, light and neat.

Have I mentioned that our server was perfect? Anastasia answered every question as though it were the first time she'd been asked. Never a trace of condescension, just thoughtful and helpful. She guided our entrée choices seamlessly.

On her suggestion, we tried the plat du jour and the vegetarian special, and both were superb. The plat ($23) was a selection of seafood -- seared tuna, shrimp and salmon -- with a Florentine sauce delicately flavored with curry. Cooks know that curry isn't the easiest spice to work with: It can taste raw, jarring and sharp. This sauce was smooth as silk. An eggplant roulade made a garlicky garnish to the plate.

I absolutely adored the Morel Mushroom Napoléon ($18). This little work of art was composed of truffled edamame mousseline -- a soufflé of green soybeans, flavored with truffle -- atop a base of grilled portobello mushroom, with grilled asparagus and exquisite morels. Morels are so ugly that they're cute, resembling a zombie delicacy, with the intense flavor of a dozen mushrooms in one. The napoléon was decorated with borek leaves -- an ultra-thin crêpe that melted in my mouth like a savory communion wafer. If cows made the rules, vegetarian food would always be this well prepared.

Desserts ($6) were listed on a chalkboard above our table, so we each enjoyed a cup of coffee while we carefully considered our options. There was a lemon bombe that sounded fascinating, but we instead chose what was listed as a chocolate turtle torte with warm caramel topping. To our surprise, the torte was actually cheesecake! While it wasn't bad, it definitely didn't live up to what had come before. Noticing that we hadn't devoured it, our beautiful server brought another choice, unprompted. It was the house specialty, Mecklenburg Pie, and it was sheer bliss -- a light mocha mousse topping a richer chocolate mousse in a perfect pastry crust.

On the way back out to the car, even the service entrance looked inviting. La Petite Pierre is grande! ©

La Petite Pierre
Go: 7800 Camargo Road, Madeira.

Call: 513-527-4909

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner: 6-9 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday; 6-9:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday.

Prices: Moderate to expensive

Payment: MasterCard and Visa only

Red Meat Alternatives: Many options

Accessibility: Excellent

Grade: A