The Sweet Smell of Poppie's
Boxes aren't strewn about, but Poppie's Deli (819 Elm St., Downtown) feels as if it's not settled in to its new digs. The untreated wood counter has a cautionary hand-written note warning that it's still under construction. The pale, sunglow tone of the painted walls are void of any artwork save for festive colored tiles. Even the tables are starkly bare. To be fair, Poppie's hasn't even been open a full month yet, and it does take a while to fully enhance a fresh abode.

Poppie's improvements are vast over the locale's previous tenants, Down to the Bone. The Jamaican restaurant had a garish, rundown '60s charm with its sickly orange motif and cracked floors. Gregarious employees and delicious food kept people coming back before Bone abruptly closed shop.

Poppie's already seems to be following in the same vein: amiable workers and appetizing fare. The restaurant quickly found CityBeat disciples, though I'd yet to traipse into Poppie's field.

After ordering our food at the counter and eagerly grabbing our retro glass bottles of Orange Crush (a find strangely too exciting for words), my friend and I chose a table by the window. It wasn't a big decision. The slight, narrow space allows for few tables. Carry-out is where it's at for Poppie's, though dining in is a pleasant respite from the office.

We sailed over the sea of greens, a sizable variety of salads from Poppie's Cobb ($7) to the more exotic Cassiopeia ($6). The day's soups, Tomato Bisque and Beef Barley ($1.75 cup; $2.75 bowl), were tempting but our stomachs sought the substantive sustenance of sandwiches.

My Riki Tiki Turkey ($6), aside from being fun to say, was a devilish combination of roasted turkey, swiss cheese, honey mustard and olive tapenade served on focaccia bread. The healthy dose of tapenade almost overwhelmed the sandwich but in truth enriched the tender flavor of the meat.

My friend wooed Genevieve ($7.50), also roasted turkey on focaccia but combined with brie and jalapeno jelly. The jelly, used sparsely, proved not to be insanely hot, instead balancing perfectly with the brie's stronger flavor.

Both sandwiches were surprisingly generous portions; a half sandwich would have done me well. Though other breads are available, the lightly grilled focaccia, served warm, held together well, defying the toll gravity takes on the richly stuffed ingredients.

A welcome, new downtown neighbor, Poppie's simply needs time to complete its aesthetic touches. The food and staff are already at home. Grade: A-