By Donna Covrett

Like poetry, bread baking is a rather introspective vocation whose primary requirement is free time for the soul. The poet and the baker are brothers in the task of nourishing the world.

Years ago someone gave me a bread machine whose only specifications were to deposit flour, water and yeast in the appropriate opening, adjust the clock and awaken the following morning to freshly baked bread. As amazing and mysterious as this was, I greatly prefer the slower, meditative process -- pushing my knuckles into the dough and kneading with a patient lover's determination. Slowly the miracle of flour and poetry arise, the content of the pans breathe life: the raw dough swelling with sensual sighs and pulsing softly like a woman's body in the abandonment of lovemaking.

Passion aside, the preparation of bread consumes hours that, for many, could be better employed. Fortunately, we have some great bakeries in town specializing in European-style artisan breads.

I consider Bill Pritz of SHADEAU BAKERY (1336 Main St., Over-the-Rhine; 513-665-9270) to be the local poet laureate of hand-crafted breads. His French baguette is about the best I've ever had anywhere: a crunchy, chewy crust and soft crumb with the slightest sour tang of fermented yeast. Other favorites include his Ciabatta (which he makes in loaves and rolls) and his mouth-watering Fresh Basil Foccacia (though limited in availability). If you can't make the trip to his store or to Findlay Market on Saturdays, several specialty markets around town carry his fabulous breads. Call for a list of locations.

GTC BAKEHOUSE (9730 Montgomery Road, Montgomery; 513-984-9333) also makes several fine loaves in the European tradition. Favorites include Pane Bello; a rustic Italian bread with a medium crisp crust and moist crumb and Farm bread; a slightly sour, rustic loaf. In addition try GIMINETTI'S (2900 Gilbert Ave., Walnut Hills; 513-751-7655) Ciabatta or Tomato Basil Asiago Bread and BREADSMITH's (9708 Kenwood Road, Blue Ash; 513-791-8817) French Peasant or Rustic Italian loaves. Each bakery sells its breads at other locations.

E-mail Donna Covrett

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