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By Woodrow J. Hinton
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Marketing is an amazing thing. It can convince you that every day is an important holiday, then make you feel guilty enough to buy the greeting card.
Make no mistakes, I don't need an excuse to gather 'round the table with family and friends, but the holidays that turn a typical meal into a party are by far my favorite. (What's St. Patrick's Day without green beer and fish and chips?)
And, even though I did see a greeting card wishing loved ones a Happy Cinco de Mayo (I'm not kidding!), I think I'll celebrate this traditional Mexican holiday the way I know best: Mexican food. From authentic Mexican fare to quick-serve burritos, the Tristate has an ample supply of restaurants -- some more festive than others -- which cater to our chips-and-salsa urges.
I'll admit, I never really knew the meaning of Cinco de Mayo, other than its translation of "the fifth of May," until a little research on a few Web sites (www.web-holidays.com; www.mexonline.com) detailed its significance. In the late 1840s, Mexico found itself bankrupt from years of fighting the Mexican-American War. In 1861, Mexico's President Benito Juarez announced that all foreign debt payments would cease for two years, allowing the country a recovery period. Not surprisingly, several of the foreign creditors, including the English, Spanish and French, found this arrangement unacceptable and invaded Mexico to retrieve any assets they could.
On May 5, 1862, La Battalla de Puebla was fought between the highly trained French forces and an unsophisticated Mexican army of half the number of men, most untrained commoners. Mexico's victory, although it did not win the war, demonstrated the spirit and strength of the Mexican people.
According to my Web sources, Cinco de Mayo is considered more of a regional holiday in Mexico, celebrated primarily in Puebla. However, Americans have adopted it as another occasion to celebrate Mexican culture, especially food and beverages. I can think of no better excuse for a Margarita hangover.
Montoya's in Fort Mitchell was where we began our quest for the premiere Cinco de Mayo celebration spot. Tucked into an inconspicuous strip of shops, the family-owned restaurant has been a favorite among neighbors for well over a decade.
Our young server greeted us with the typical Mexican restaurant greeting -- a basket of chips and homemade salsa. The flavorful salsa, although homemade, wasn't particularly fresh; the few chunks of tomato and jalapenos were a little on the wilted side. The chips were crisp and salty, though we would have preferred them warmed.
At our server's recommendation, we ordered the Quesadilla Sincronizada with Chicken ($3.00). Although very basic, we were pleased with the tasty shredded chicken and Monterey jack cheese stuffed between grilled flour tortillas and topped with lettuce, sour cream and guacamole. Adding a couple of Coronas with lime, it was a nice starter to our meal.
My entrée, the Jalisco, was a combination platter, including a chicken burrito topped with melted cheddar cheese and accompanied by frijoles and arroz (refried pinto beans and rice). I enjoyed my burrito but don't remember much more about it. My husband said the same about his Chicken Fajitas ($9.25). The skillet-cooked onions, peppers and shredded chicken (the same chicken from our appetizer) were all tasty wrapped in steamed flour tortillas, but nothing special.
On the other hand, we conceded that for the money the meal was a good buy. Including a tip for our friendly server, we walked away for under $30. It's easy to see why the restaurant has become a staple for Fort Mitchell families, especially those with young children, for both dining in and carry-out dinners. Even without margaritas on the menu, the spot is not a bad choice for a Cinco de Mayo celebration, especially if on a budget.
But I needed a margarita. I crave them. With or without salt. Frozen or on the rocks. Blended or hand mixed, margaritas are the perfect beverage accompaniment for a Mexican meal.
Our quest led us to the Tristate's Mecca of margaritas: El Coyote.
It's difficult to truly describe an El Coyote margarita. Don't picture the dressed-up bar beverage from a typical chain restaurant, although they are served here in little margarita glasses shaped like a cactus. (Unless you are like the men in our party, who asked for theirs in "regular" glasses.) Think instead of a not-too-sweet but not-too-tart and incredibly smooth drink that will make you forget how many you've had before it's too late. One of these drinks could change my entire review of a restaurant. (Is that why one only hears good things about El Coyote?) Two of these and I can't remember what I ate. Frozen and with salt ($5.25) is my preference, although the restaurant serves many on the rocks, or half-and-half (half frozen, half poured) as well.
For this occasion, we drove to the newest El Coyote location in Harrison (that's on the West Side), although we have frequented the Anderson location many times in the past. This one is much more difficult to find, with only a sign visible from the highway to mark its location. Luckily, a few of the locals had clued us in on its secret location, attached to the Harrison Quality Inn. The decor in Harrison is the same as in Anderson -- Southwestern-style artwork and pottery adorn the walls and booths. The bar area in Harrison, however, is much larger than in Anderson, a bonus for those long waits for tables on weekend evenings.
I'll just start off by stating that I love El Coyote's chips and salsa. The chips always arrive warm and salty, and the salsa is, indeed, freshly made. However, I've noted over the years as a frequent guest that there is no consistency on two notes. First, I'm still not sure if chips and salsa are complimentary. Some times I'm charged for them, sometimes not. I've usually had a margarita, so I always forget to ask by the time I get the bill. I do know, for the past couple of years, I've always had to ask for them. Secondly, although servers have told us the salsa is "mild," at times it has been too hot to be enjoyed. On this particular evening, it was perfect.
We continued to munch on chips with our appetizer, Chili Con Queso Dip ($5.95), a hot, melty blend of shredded spicy beef, pinto beans, sliced jalapeno peppers, cheese and salsa. A definite crowd pleaser on this evening. I'd also recommend two other favorites: Guacamole Dip ($5.95; one of the best I've had), and Machaca Dip ($7.95), another dipping appetizer made of spicy shredded beef, topped with El Coyote's famous mashed potatoes (I'll get to those in a minute), onions and cheddar cheese. I've also had this one made without the beef for $1 less.
Entrée choices run the gamut from Tex-Mex traditionals to steak and seafood. My grilled Quesadilla El Coyote ($11.95) with chicken was good, as always. The chicken was fresh and spicy, topped with cheese, beans, onions, guacamole and sour cream. I chose refried black beans and El Coyote's famous mashed potatoes as my side dishes. Believe me: You must order the mashed potatoes, regardless of what else you order here. The creamy, buttery, cheesy potatoes are unforgettable. Blended with cream and a hint of white pepper, it's a recipe I've tried unsuccessfully numerous times to duplicate.
My husband swears by El Coyote's steaks. His Carne Asada ($19.95) consisted of slightly blackened medallions of filet, served on a flour tortilla with tomatoes, onions, sour cream and guacamole. He also chose the mashed potatoes but instead of salad opted for the Mexican macaroni and cheese, another non-traditional but great side.
If you have the time and the budget, El Coyote is an excellent Cinco de Mayo choice. But, there are other Mexican options, especially if you're counting the minutes.
Several quick-serve burrito restaurants have rolled onto the Cincinnati restaurant scene over the past year. Burrito Joe's recently opened in Harper's Point (along with its downtown and Clifton locations) as well as Habañero's gourmet burritos in Clifton's Gaslight district. Joining the genre is Denver-based Chipotle Mexican Grill, recently opened in Kenwood on Montgomery Road.
The Mexican experience is simplified at Chipotle (chi-POAT-lay). At the counter, guests select from ingredients like chicken, steak or vegetarian bean and order burritos or tacos. Fajita burrito style adds grilled peppers and onions to the mix. Diners choose toppings (lettuce, tomato, sour cream, guacamole and salsa) and watch as their burrito is wrapped, stuffed and served by the time they reach the cash register. One guest called it a Mexican "Subway" with beer.
We enjoyed the quick-serve concept and fresh ingredients. We tried the fresh tomato (mild), roasted chili corn (medium) and tomatillo and red chili (hot) salsas with chips ($.95; $.55 additional salsas) and thought they were decent for quick-serve food. My Chicken Burrito ($4.65) and my husband's steak Fajita Burrito ($4.95) were both tasty and fresh. Something about the industrial, minimalist decor makes me think Chipotle Grill might not offer the Mexican flair of other establishments necessary for a festive Cinco de Mayo celebration meal, although a fine choice for a quick meal on any other occasion.
With so many Mexican options, Cincinnati's restaurant scene offers more than one could cover in a lifetime of Cinco de Mayo celebrations. (Good thing most of them are open other days, as well.) From quick and on a budget to family-friendly or spare-no-expense, the variety of establishments makes the search for a favorite an ongoing holiday. ©
